A mini guide to Linköping’s historical walking paths
Bloodbath, canal, and locks. These are some of the many significant events in Linköping’s history you may encounter during a walk in the heart of Linköping. Use our mini-guide and stroll around among historical footprints at your own pace.
Linköping Cathedral
Linköping Cathedral is, after Uppsala Cathedral, Sweden’s largest and best-preserved medieval church building. The first stone church, a Romanesque basilica, began construction in the 1120s and was completed for the church council in 1153. On the site of the stone church, there was probably an earlier wooden church, and excavations have revealed that there were Christian graves here from the 11th century. The church was then expanded over several hundred years and was completed around the year 1500, by then with a separate bell tower. Once inside the church, you are greeted by a bright and airy church room, where decorations and furnishings from different eras can be found. Here, there is also a medieval crucifix, the grand Baroque pulpit, Henrik Sörensen’s altarpiece, Lisa Bauer’s engraved Mary window, and other artworks from ancient times that have lived on through history to today’s modern time.
Sainte Birgitta also visited Linköping Cathedral during her lifetime. The medieval crucifix from the 14th century, which still adorns the church room, is said to be one she knelt before and thought she spoke with Jesus. Birgitta’s family on her mother’s side had strong ties with Östergötland and the Folkungs. They contributed large donations to the cathedral – but Birgitta also had many personal connections to the place. However, there is only evidence that she visited the church once during her lifetime.
S:t Lars Church
S:t Lars Church is a church building constructed in stone in the year 1802 in central Linköping, and it has a classic and contemporary appearance with its characteristic tower. Five times a day, we can hear the church’s fine carillon while strolling around the city’s shopping offerings that today surround the church.
If we take a brief look at the church’s history – we find that another church built in the 10th century previously stood here. A simple little stave church. Due to damage to the masonry and foundations, it was decided to build a new church, and the demolition of the previous church began in 1798. The new church was inaugurated on New Year’s Day in 1802 and is today known as S:t Lars Church.
But who is S:t Lars? S:t Lars or Laurentius’ history stretches back to Rome in the 3rd century. At that time, Christians were persecuted and the Roman Empire’s emperor did not allow prayers to God. St. Lars was responsible for the church’s treasures, which he was to distribute among the poor. The Roman governor got wind of this and then demanded that he hand over the treasures to the authorities. He then gathered poor and sick Christians in the square and called out to the governor and said: “Here is the eternal treasure, which never diminishes but grows.” For this, he was sentenced to death. S:t Lars is today a patron saint.
Stora torget, Folke Filbyter & Folkungabrunnen
Stora torget has always been a natural meeting place. Of all kinds. Both in joy and in sorrow. It was here that the Linköping Bloodbath took place. It was here that the five councilmen were executed by beheading, following the Battle of Stångebro in 1598.
Located in Stora torget, you will also find Folkungabrunnen — a statue from 1927 created by the artist Carl Milles. The statue is based on Werner von Heidenstam’s book Folkungaträdet (1905), where the legend says that Folke Filbyter is the ancestor of the Bjälbo family, also known as the Folkunga dynasty from Östergötland. According to the legend, his name is said to mean foal-biter. A nickname because Folke was said to have castrated horses with his teeth. The monument was inaugurated on December 12, 1927, and today is a natural gathering place for various events and occasions.
The fountain is made of black granite with Folke Filbyter as the central figure. The pool edges are decorated with reliefs taken from the history of Östergötland and the Bjälbo family. If you are interested in art, take the opportunity to visit the nearby Passagen Konsthall.
Linköping Castle
The history of Linköping Castle dates back to the year 1149 – before it even became a castle. The building was originally constructed as a limestone bishop’s farm for Bishop Gisle in the early 1100s, traces of which can still be seen today in the castle’s western wing.
The last bishop who lived on the farm was none other than Hans Brask, the last Catholic bishop in the Diocese of Linköping whose appointment was confirmed by the pope. But in 1527, Bishop Brask fled when Gustav Vasa carried out the Reformation, and the bishop’s farm was then converted into the royal castle we see today. After varied historical uses, such as a royal Renaissance castle and a prison (where, among others, the councilors sentenced to death awaited execution in 1600), the castle became the governor’s residence at the end of the 18th century.
Linköping’s city fire and Hunnebergsgatan
In late January 1700, most of Linköping burned down. The servant Sven Nilsson had placed his stable lantern so inappropriately that one of the horses knocked it over in the hay. The stable was located at the corner of Storgatan, where Centralpalatset stands today. Nils tried to avoid responsibility and claimed it was not him. The wind was strong that evening and caused the fire to spread quickly – nearly 150 houses burned down. In the upper parts of Linköping, among others, the castle, cathedral, bishop’s house, and houses along Hunnebergsgatan were spared. Sven was sentenced to hard labor – but while waiting for transport, he died under mysterious circumstances in the arrest at Linköping Castle.
Hunnebergsgatan is thus an old medieval street that is part of Linköping’s cultural path and shows some of the city’s most interesting courtyard environments from the late 1700s and early 1800s. The houses along the street were once a significant suburban development and had a bad reputation. Here were beer taverns, slums, and poor sanitary conditions. Today, there are artisans offering sales of crafts, clothing, ceramics, handwoven utility items, and more.
Kinda Canal/Stångån
Kinda Canal was completed in 1871. The canal stretches over 80 km from Lake Åsunden in the south to Roxen in the north and consists of 15 locks. The port of Linköping was a significant inland port with staple rights during the latter part of the 19th century and a large number of industries grew along the river. In 1948, all freight traffic ceased.
A canal walk is available along both sides of the river, which is excellent for jogging. Earlier this year, new informative signs were also installed along the canal that tell about its history during your walk. Also stop by one of the cozy cafes and restaurants that are adjacent to the river. In summer, the passenger boat M/S Kind operates shorter and longer tours. For the adventurous, there is access to a wakeboard line and kayak rental.
Digital city tours
There are several ways to discover central Linköping on your own. All you need is a mobile phone.
Östergötland Museum’s city tours
Östergötland Museum offers four digital city tours where you can delve into Linköping’s history on your own. All you need is a mobile and a pair of headphones. Choose from four tours: the medieval tour, the art tour, the architecture tour, and from burned peasant village to modern city. The tours take about 60-90 minutes.
The lost city of Linköping
A good day starts with a good laugh; so discover Linköping through the playful eyes of comedian Ben Kersley in the humorous story of “The lost city of Linköping”. You start at Mickeys strandfik and then make your way through the central parts of Linköping. Along the way, you encounter mysterious creatures with exciting stories. The walk takes about 90 minutes and is 4 km long. The guide is available in Swedish and English, and your guide is Ben Kersley, who also wrote the script.